The Mekong Delta – not exactly the heart of darkness

Vietnam – one of the countries we were most excited to visit. Would we be treated with disdain due to lingering anti-American sentiment or would we be greeted by warm smiles from people? Starting our trip in the deep south, we spent a few days on Phu Quoc Island before catching a the Superdong 1 (huh huh) to the Mekong Delta. Why is it that people in the south of any country tend to be more open and friendly than those in the north? Based on the conversations we had with locals, there is a definite dislike of northerners – and a healthy rivalry. We found most Vietnamese here charismatic and engaging, although they are the shrewdest negotiators. It is motherfucking hard to bargain a good deal, especially for transport.

Can Tho is in the heart of the Mekong Delta and a fantastic base for immersing yourself in the scene. We stayed by the river in front of a huge statue of Ho Chi Minh, whose portrait on all the money looks exactly like Mr. Miyagi from The Karate Kid. The main thing to do here is hire a boat (around $20-25) to check out the floating markets and drift along the smaller canals. Back in the day before all the bridges and motorbikes, locals had to do their shopping on the rivers. Vendors at the Cái Rang and Phong Dien markets tie up their goods to a bamboo pole sticking up from their boat, so people know what’s for sale. There are even the snack vendors who float by selling coffee and drinks, noodle soup or other tasty treats. The best part of the trip, however, is checking out village life close up along the small tributaries. Villagers fish, bathe, do laundry, wash dishes and even go to the bathroom in the river.

After a few days bicycling around and eating delicious street food (cheapasfuck), we caught a local ferry and bus over to Vinh Long. Instead of booking through the tourist office, we walked along the river, hoping to hook up a family homestay with independently. Within five minutes, “Nam” approached us made us a great offer for a waterway tour and a night at his house.  The evening we spent at his family’s riverside home was an enlightening experience and an inside look into how real people in the Mekong live. Despite the obvious communication barrier, we played with his one-year old son Din, ate home cooking and chatted about life in the Delta. We learned about tidal frequencies and more than we ever thought we would about cockfighting, one of Nam’s great passions. Awesome.

From the slow pace of life in the Mekong, we’re headed to the insanity that is Saigon. Let’s hope we don’t get taken out by a speeding moto.