Chiapas is Mexico’s southernmost state, bordering Guatemala and also home to the highest percentage of indigenous groups. It’s also the poorest state yet produces over half of the country’s hydroelectric power, has rich oil reserves and has seen a government funded tourism boom. The local people, however, see little benefit from all this development. The Zapatista (EZLN) movement emerged in the early 90’s on a anti-globalization and anti-capitalist platform, on a mission to bring equality to indigenous population. In the areas where the Zapatistas first came to power, 80% of families earn less than $3 a day and only 30% have electricity. They were portrayed as terrorists in the western media but here people support them and their cause of social justice. While the military pretty much crushed the Zapatistas years ago, the revolution still continues and many villages are self-proclaimed EZLN strongholds.
San Cristobal de las Casas, located in the highlands of the region, is the main tourist mecca in these parts. It’s an interesting mix of indigenous locals, alternative thinkers and hippy expats. Not only is it a beautiful city but there’s also great food, a bumping nightlife and a huge selection of impressive handicrafts. Don’t forget to have a cup of coffee here – it’s locally grown and delicious. While you’re here, you’ve got to visit the nearby village of San Juan Chamula. The sunday market attracts villagers from all around, adorned in a diverse assortment of furs and traditional garb. Entering the church here was one of the most bizarre and fascinating experiences we’ve had. The Tzotzil locals practice a religion which is a mix of Catholicism and old indigenous beliefs. There are no pews, and pine needles cover the floor. Worshipers are on their hands and knees lighting rows of multicolored candles on the floor and offering live chickens or bottles of soda, as prescribed by the curandero (medicine man) to cure their ailments. Photography is strictly forbidden, so you have to go to see it for yourself. To understand more about these rituals, visit the Museum of Maya Medicine before you go. Truly incredible.
Additionally, there are natural wonders throughout the area. The Canon de Sumidero is impressive in itself, with 1000 meter cliffs on either side, but you can also spot huge ass crocodiles lounging on the river bank. There are also the Lagunas de Montebello where you can hike around a national park checking out caves, lakes and cenotes. If you only have time for one long trip out of town, go to El Chiflon. It’s a massive waterfall with turquoise pools you can explore and swim in all day. Seriously, it’s the bomb shit and only cost $2!
So if you want a break from the resorts of the Yucatan, or the glitz of Mexico City, come to Chiapas and get a slice of old Mexico.
haha- you guys are still going – rock on…much impressed..
Andrew ( of riding in the camel days in Morocco – when you guys had just begun your big adventure so many months – turning into years – ago)
I was racking my brains for someone from San Francisco who might be able to help punt my Dinosaur app for iPads and thought- ahh- those great IT turned hippie couple might be back….guess not…good on ya. well if we are ever in the same city you have a place to stay- We are still in Sweden for two months- then either Singapore or South Africa for a year or three.