It was already getting dark when we got off the bus at the Cabo Polonio stop, and the 7 kilometer walk into town seemed a lot less inviting. We decided to hitch a ride on one of the monsterous, custom-built transport vehicles which made the slow trek on rough trails, over dunes, and along the beach to the remote village. Located in the center of the Uruguayan coast, surrounded by cattle ranches and commercial fishing operations, Cabo Polonio is the last place you’d expect to find a hippie haven – but the rows of craft stands and handmade houses were an unmistakable sign. We had stumbled upon one of those one-of a-kind places all travelers are searching for…
Originally a fishing village accessible only by sea, hippies landed on this remote beach several decades ago as a place to get away and live by their own rules. Not wanting to be at the whim of even the electric companies, the whole town remains off grid by choice, even though power lines run directly through the center to the lighthouse. Cabo Polonio has no real roads. Without cars, there isn’t much use for them. Instead, paths lead across the wind swept dunes between the random scattering of homes built from driftwood and salvaged materials. Gazing horses dot the landscape as the most reliable means of transportation back to civilization. There are just a few restaurants and a single market catering to the residents and increasing number of vacationers. Behind the lighthouse is a large sea lion colony, which you can reach from anywhere in town in 10 minutes. In summary…paradise.
Kim and I stayed right on the beach in one of the two hostels competing for off-season visitors. Our room was lit by candles, and the hot water was provided by a contraption akin to a watering can with a gas burner underneath. It couldn’t have been more perfectly rustic. Together with a mishmash of other travelers, we spent our days exploring the village, meandering down the endless beach, and going back and forth to the “supermarket” for beer runs. It would be a tragedy if this gem fell to the forces of increased tourism, with resorts and fancy restaurants. Luckily, the Cabo Polonians seem committed to their way of life and won’t be giving in to the pressures of capitalism any time soon.
PS. Where else can you get killer ocean sunrises and sunsets by walking 5 minutes across town?
And killer sunsets... this place has it all
The sunrises weren't so bad either
No cars, but lots of sea lions? Sounds absolutely perfect.