Shit, I can’t think of a world capital with a more fascinating history in recent years. It’s been 20 years since the wall came tumbling down, and a strangely beautiful and unique city has sprung up in the aftermath. I came to visit a couple of friends who couchsurfed wth us in San Francisco and planned on staying two weeks – you know, to soak up the summertime vibes and drink quality beer. My homies live in Neukölln, the new hipstertastic district for people who’ve been priced out of Kreuzberg (the rapidly gentrifying alternative area). I hadn’t seen this many tight black pants, fixie bicyles and eyeglass frames without lenses in ages! Upon arrival, my friend took me to his local watering hole, Sportklause, where you can still smoke indoors and play ping pong. When did ping pong become the cool bar game du jour? Not that I’m complaining or anything because it’s hella fun.
To get my bearings, I took the free Alternative Berlin Tour which leaves twice daily from Alexanderplatz. I’m not much of a tour person but this one was awesome because it focused more on street/graffiti art, underground scenes and artist squats. Right now, the city is a hotbed of creativity and everyone you meet seems to be an artist, musician or designer. Our tour guide said he was granted a special artist visa where the government pays you a monthly stipend for food and housing, which allows you to focus on your work. The sheer amount of street art is staggering, from the East Side Gallery to walls and rooftops. Another thing that’s striking is the number of abandoned warehouses and other derelict structures that remain all over Berlin. In San Francisco, that land would be razed and luxury condos would pop up faster than you could say “gentrification”. Here, on the other hand, those buildings can become squats or a club or just be left alone…makes for a very interesting cityscape.
Having a bike in Berlin is essential. While public transit is excellent, most people get around by bicycle and riding here is a breeze. I spent a lot of time exploring the different neighborhoods and sitting by the canals with 1 euro beers from the convenience store. Don’t forget to bring back the bottle to reclaim your glass deposit! Besides cheap cheap beers, you could probably sustain yourself with tasty döner kebabs (europe’s answer to the taco) the whole time. Berlin is pretty fucking affordable in comparison with other European capitals so there’s no need to be stingy with your cash. Good thing because you’ll need it to party all night. I went to a couple clubs and underground parties during my stay there. Amazing venues, party people and good atmosphere. I only have one complaint – I know most Germans can’t dance but does it mean we all have to be subjected to the constant drone of minimal techno?
Berlin is one of those places that makes you feel like you’re in the center of it all. I left the city feeling inspired, excited and very hung over. No worries – I can sleep when I’m dead.